Perhaps returning to the traditional can equally bring about cutting-edge inspiration. Unlike contemporary fashion that is often westernised, long Cheongsams retain classic beauty, which when combined with modernity, serves to present a distinctive femininity. Karen Chan is the founder and designer of this year’s CENTRESTAGE EMERGING DESIGNER, SPARKLE COLLECTION. While she was born and raised in Hong Kong, she spent many years in Western countries such as the USA and Canada, and has thereby developed unique views on multiculturalism and the reshaping of traditions. Consequently, she yearns to integrate her penchant for Cheongsams into daily fashion.

1. Having been taught under the guidance of traditional Cheongsam masters, what do you reckon is the difference between your own clothing and traditional designs?

Traditional Chinese clothing includes Cheongsams and Tangzhuang. Cheongsams are often tailored to be form-fitting to enhance the feminine silhouette. The standards of craftsmanship are extremely high: from material selection and cloth cutting, to sewing, ironing, sleeves and button details, every procedure must be meticulously executed to sew a perfect Cheongsam. Most Cheongsams and Tangzhuang are designed under themes such as landscapes, flowers and nature to exude a palpable oriental charm.

I was taught to make Cheongsams by a master with over 60 years of experience – Feng Youcai, who is also known as the “Master of Shanghai Style Cheongsam”, as well as being an inheritor of Hong Kong intangible cultural heritage. I invited him to serve as the honorary consultant for SPARKLE COLLECTION, to be in charge of directing and ensuring that the brand retains traditional craftsmanship. Yet at the same time we aim to modify and subvert the typical impression of traditional Chinese clothing through our designs, cutting and fabric selection. We primarily focus on three aspects: First, the design of original fabrics, and to enliven them by combining them with different cultural, artistic and environmental protection units and institutions; second, tailoring to enhance form, and incorporating elements of Western clothing such as floral sleeves and A-line skirts which are more apt for daily wear; and third, the use of environmentally friendly denim and leather that meet the EU Bluesign® blue standard for broken leather, in order to stay in line with sustainable development trends.

2. Where has the greatest challenge in brand management originated from? How would you “promote” the tradition of Cheongsam among contemporary women, while balancing it with the inheritance of tradition?

The greatest challenge in brand management arises from the question of how to promote and publicise Chinese clothing traditions to contemporary women. In truth, traditional Chinese clothing is often perceived as old-fashioned; the stereotype of it being “the old generation’s dress” is deeply rooted. Moreover, the flamboyant design of Cheongsams provides a sense that they are limited to being worn on grand occasions such as weddings and business meetings, making it difficult for them to gain popularity, hence the diminishing market and tradition. What a pity!

I founded SPARKLE COLLECTION with an aim to combine the Chinese and Western, to inherit culture and to enliven tradition, as a lover of traditional Chinese clothing. I hope to pass down these clothing traditions, spread knowledge and understanding of the value of Cheongsams and Tangzhuang, as well as the appreciation of their history and exquisite craftsmanship.

3. Why have you chosen the path of modernising the traditional Cheongsam? What message would you like to convey to the public?

We wish to let contemporary women understand how traditional Chinese clothing can equally be worn in a fashionable way!

Hence, SPARKLE COLLECTION has been committed to “refurbishing” and normalising traditional Chinese clothing by combining Chinese and Western designs and incorporating a playful edge. All of our works are suitable for women of different body shapes and ages to wear on different occasions: from daily life and parties, to office and ceremonies, as well as weddings, banquets. When I attend meetings, banquets and even just at work, I wear my own "reinvented Chinese clothing" and personally interpret the fashionable outfits of "modern Cheongsams" and "modified Tang suits". Over time, I will assemble a group of “like-minded” women who share the love for traditional Chinese clothing, and they shall become our brand’s “KOL”, having witnessed the plethora of ways to style and integrate them into daily life.

Besides exhibiting the beauty of traditional Chinese clothing to contemporary women, we are equally keen on cultivating new-generation designers. Our scheme includes the annual flagship project "Next In Chinese Style Young Designer Challenge" co-organized by SPARKLE COLLECTION, SPARKLE Charity Foundation and Hong Kong Design Institute HKDI, which invites a new generation of young designers to participate in the design of cheongsam and Tangzhuang, to be taught by Cheongsam master Feng Youcai. We even invite political and business celebrities, cross-sector designers, and professionals to serve as judges to gather all generations under the same roof to promote the revival of classic Chinese clothing.

4. The theme of this year’s CENTERSTAGE is “Radiant Wellness”. How do you think clothing/fashion can help one achieve a feeling of physical and spiritual satisfaction? What is the connection between the female body and self-nature?

Wearing a fitting outfit enables one to showcase their personal style, allowing oneself to be differentiated from others, as well as boosting one’s self-confidence. As the saying goes: “If the flowers are in full bloom, the butterfly will come naturally” – Confidence is a requisite for beauty, hence why clothing and fashion can help one achieve physical and spiritual fulfilment.

5. How has Hong Kong inspired your design aesthetic? Would you say that Cheongsam is an inextricable part of Hong Kong’s clothing culture? If so, why?

Hong Kong is a place of multicultural background. All kinds of races, traditions, cultures, religions etc. are cultivated here, which have moulded Hong Kong into a place of mutual respect and toleration. Our people are accustomed to both living in harmony and appreciating differences, and it is precisely this mode of life that has produced Hong Kong’s unique cultural background. This ranges from Hong Kong people’s humanistic values, cultural and art industries, living habits, entertainment and even its touristic attractions. This unique background is not just a beautiful landscape but equally forms an integral part of the "Hong Kong Story".

I was born and raised in Hong Kong where the Eastern and Western cultures converge, and it is the bits and pieces of Hong Kong “life” that have become the source of inspiration for my designs! The daily necessities and places with which I come into contact in my daily life, as well as the beautiful people and things I encounter, and even the appearance and customs of the city I see when I walk on the streets and alleys, all inspire my thoughts brick by brick. The design of SPARKLE COLLECTION has always centred on the core theme of "Hong Kong". For example, the 2021 series "Transform" is inspired by the red, white and blue Hong Kong spirit, its architecture and mountains, whereas the 2022 series focuses on the brilliance of the “neon city”, and the 2023 series focuses on the nostalgic taste of “士多” (traditional Hong Kong tuck shops). I perceive extraordinary meaning within the insignificant things around me.

The brand also collaborates with the Hong Kong Museum of Art and the Hong Kong Heritage Museum to jointly plan the "Museum Collection", using their art collections to create original "modern Cheongsams" and "cutting-edge Tangzhuang". We have specially selected the world-renowned art paintings of 6 representative contemporary artists collected by the Hong Kong Museum of Art: Qi Baishi, Gao Jianfu, Wan Qingxie, Wu Changshuo, Han Zhixun, and Wu Guanzhong, and transformed them into unique silk fabrics. Some of the designs were sewn by Master Feng Youcai, an inheritor of Hong Kong's intangible cultural heritage, into the extremely valuable "Masterpiece Collection". At the same time, we have also been inspired by the nostalgic childhood entertainment collections by the Hong Kong Heritage Museum, which combined with my childhood memories of playgrounds created "Our Happy Times", in hopes of resonating with Hong Kong people.

6. What development plans do you have for your brand?

In the future, we will continue to create new and improved designs for those who appreciate Hong Kong culture, art and the amalgamation of Chinese and Western styles!