Keywords like “diversity”, “inclusion”, and “sustainability” are widely emphasized in contemporary discourse, but how many people truly understand and strive to practice them? Roksanda Ilinčić, a Serbian designer based in London, infuses her understanding and support of women into her designs. She seamlessly integrates the structural aesthetics of architecture into her clothing and accessory designs, creating a unique and highly-coveted aesthetic. This year, she joins the ranks of the emerging designers selected by CENTRESTAGE, adding another layer to the discourse of what it means to be “contemporary”.

How would you define femininity and feminism in the contemporary age? How do you draw inspiration from them and interpret these ideas in fashion?

Equality, self-respect and empowerment have a powerful presence within the modern woman, which is truly wonderful to see. My collections are infused with a continuous undercurrent of femininity, designs are created to inspire women to be unapologetically themselves. For me, it's about encouraging self-expression and unwavering confidence.

Architectural elements and structural details are consistent design features of your brand. How do you transform these into designs that suit the female body?

Architecture and fashion are built on the same fundamental concept: to bring a sense of shelter and belonging. Like architecture, my collections also celebrate the sculptural approach to design but also the idea of “ fluid architecture” when shapes are achieved through lightness with as little restriction as possible. I have always believed that, like buildings, clothes have so much emotional and personal meaning woven into them, but also the power to elevate the person that is inhabiting them.

Is multiculturalism one of your focal points? Do you think your cross-cultural background helps distinguish your brand in the fashion industry?

I am strongly influenced by multicultural diversity, which is one of the reasons why I came to London—to immerse myself in its vibrant, diverse tapestry. While progress is evident, it remains insufficient; I hope for more profound integration within the industry. My Serbian heritage allows for a unique, expansive perspective, unconfined to a single culture and I love celebrating it with each of my collections.

As one of the most influential fashion brands in London, what are your concerns regarding sustainability?

The fashion industry is in constant evolution and it is our duty to react to such a vital question of our time.  I am heartened to see many brands becoming increasingly mindful of their production and consumption practices, but I feel we are still at the beginning of this important journey.  One of the challenges is that sustainable choices, for example, fabrics often come at higher costs. Therefore, I  feel we also have a responsibility to educate our clients about the significance of sustainability, helping them make informed and responsible choices, buying less but buying thoughtfully.

What are your thoughts on the prominence of circular fashion and upcycling design over the past decade?

As a designer, I always strive to create timeless pieces.  Something that will hopefully be loved, and cherished and that will have its own, special journey. For my SS 23 collection, many show pieces came from upcycled designs from some of my favourite dresses, reimagined and repurposed. Talented designer Matty Bovan recycled one of my signature red dresses for the opening look for one of his previous shows. The modern consumer responds to this trend and I hope this will not change but become a norm.

How do you envision the future of the global fashion industry? What role do you see yourself playing in it?

I envision being part of the transformative wave, moving and growing alongside the changes while bringing my own unique initiatives and ideas.  I long to be a voice for improvement within the industry, advocating for innovation, empowerment and equality.